Tuesday, 22 May 2012

Abel Tasman Nat'l Park - Greymouth - Franz Josef

Marahau/Abel Tasman National Park (April 5-7)
After some unfortunate weather in Tongariro National Park and Wellington, we were greeted onto the South Island with some beautiful warm sunny weather. Passing through Nelson was really nice and we felt a little bit as if we should have tried to find work there instead of Blenheim. It seemed to be much livelier and have a better vibe about it compared to the flat, quiet, agricultural town of Blenheim. Not to mention a population difference of 20,000. At the same time, we had a decent set-up in Blenheim, Adrian was able to start work right away, we had great bosses, and we were able to save up more with nothing leisurely to spend our money on!
 
We were invited into Marahau with a colourful sunset which we took pictures of before we continued on our way to Old MacDonald’s Farm. Marahau is a small town that acts as a kind of gateway into the Abel Tasman National Park, which provides great walks, sailing trips, kayaking, and swimming with seals. Arriving with the sun already down we made plans to take it easy in the evening and get charged up for tomorrow’s activities.

Beach on the way to Marahau/Abel Tasman
Cool sunset photo near Marahau
The Stray itinerary mentions that there is a wine-tasting opportunity when you pass through the Marlborough district (Blenheim and Nelson) but because we were running a bit behind schedule and there were so many of us, a few of us came up with the idea of buying a few bottles of wine and doing our own wine tasting. After working in Blenheim and visiting Gisborne, Adrian and I volunteered to purchase the wine and lead the tasting. It turned out to be a lot of fun and everyone seemed to have a good time. It was nice to take the knowledge we got from visiting the places and what I learned in previous wine training (what I got from working at the Stampede Casino) and apply it. Although I’m sure even if there wasn’t any information on the wine, it would have still been a good time sharing a few bottles with our group.

For activities the next day, we decided to take a water taxi to Anchorage Hut then walk the estimated four hours back to Marahau. It was another gorgeous day. The sun was out, no clouds in the sky, calm water. Once we got into the boat, we made a short trip to Split Apple Rock, which is, well, a big rock in the water that takes on the shape of an apple that has split in half. From there, we drove up to Torrent Bay, where there was a 45-min loop walk before we started the other walk back to Marahau. The thing is, the walk can take about four hours but there are so many side tracks that take you to beaches and coves along the way that you can really make it a full day. Actually a lot of people will start further up the coast and make the trip back a three or four day trip. It seemed like a good place to start doing longer hikes because the hikes are quite easier and there are a lot of people around if something goes wrong. 

Here they use tractors to launch boats, not trucks or SUVs
Split Apple Rock
Torrent Bay, the start of our walk back
Anchorage
Rock kiwi bird at the Watering Cove
There were such beautiful views along the way with the contrast of the golden sand against the turquoise water and bright green trees. We took some breaks at the beaches which is where we learned about how the colour of the sand came to be. It’s “golden” because of the constant grinding of the iron on the granite rocks. By the time we got back to Marahau it was 4:30pm making our walk about six hours long! A great time though and we couldn’t have asked for better weather. And it was supposed to continue to be like that for the next few days. It was very tempting to stay longer and do more walks but once again we decided to move on with the group.
Great view
Another great view
      Greymouth (April 7-8 [Easter])
From Abel Tasman National Park, we followed the coast line down along the West Coast with our destination for the day being Greymouth. Thankfully the weather stuck with us which made the views that much more striking. I knew the West Coast had the glaciers so for some reason I thought the coast would have all rocky beaches and that it would be much colder than the rest of the area. Wow, was I mistaken! Turns out the glaciers are on the outskirts of a rainforest so there is so much green vegetation, so many sandy beaches and surfing is actually a popular activity in the area even if the water is a bit colder than other places. We made some stops along the way to check out a seal colony at Tauranga Bay (only saw two seals though) and the Punakaiki Pancake Rocks and Blowholes in the Paparoa National Park. These pancake rocks were so different from the ones we kayaked to in Raglan. Much taller but the “pancakes” were much thinner. Unfortunately the tide wasn’t at the right level to see the blowholes in action.

Tauranga Bay
The West Coast
Pancake Rocks
More pancake rocks taking on shapes of different things
After so many stunning sights, Greymouth was a huge disappointment. It is considered the hub of the West Coast but since its gold mining days way back when there didn’t seem to be much going on there. It didn’t help that we were staying in a hostel in the downtown which seemed more like a huge concrete playground/industrial park. The hostel was painted bright purple on the outside to attract people I guess and there was an on-site bar but overall it was the worst hostel we have stayed at thus far; because of the location but more so the owner of the place and how he ran it. 

One of the fun/good things about our evening there was the Bin Bag Competition. Everyone was challenged to dress up in bin bags (garbage bags) and then strut their stuff down the “catwalk” for a chance to win a free canyon swing in Queenstown.  Adrian and I were busy doing expenses/budgeting so I didn’t get into it but some of our group made him a shirt and a hat to go as someone else’s groom.  It turned out pretty good but there were also some creative costumes. In the end, Adrian and Holly really sold it on the catwalk taking some moves from the movie “Hitch” and ended up winning the canyon swing!

Adrian and Holly, Bride & Groom
Group photo
The next day we hung out until 1pm then an afternoon trip to Franz Josef Glacier further down the coast.

Franz Josef Glacier (April 8-10)
As I mentioned earlier, the West Coast includes a huge glacier area in amongst a temperate rainforest which includes two major glaciers- Franz Josef Glacier and Fox Glacier. The Franz Josef Glacier is also known as Ka Roimata o Hine Hukatere translated from Maori to “Tears of the Avalanche Girl” and named this based on a legend about a girl losing her lover who fell from the peaks with her tears flooding and freezing into the glacier. This glacier is 12km and Fox further down the road is 13km. Because these glaciers are constantly moving and there are chances of ice- and rockfalls, you legally need a guide to climb the glacier. Thanks to Stray we were able to get a good deal on a full-day trip which included free entry into the nearby hot pools afterwards.

Our full-day hike started out at 7am to get all of gear- rain jacket, rain pants, gloves, toque, fanny pack, and cramp-ons (strap on spiky shoes for climbing on the ice). We got out to the car park of the glacier around 8:30am and then there was a 40-minute walk to the face of the glacier.  After an history session/ orientation we strapped on our cramp-ons and away we went! The first half of the day was more challenging than anything. We kept going at a pretty fast steady pace with just short breaks to catch our breathe. During these breaks we would get history or fun facts about the area and glacier. The second half of the day was definitely on the more adventurous side of things, sliding through thin spaces and climbing through short tunnels. The sites were more stunning too being amongst blue ice and less traveled areas. This was rumoured to be one of the last full-day hike trips as global warming has really started to take a toll on the glacier and signs of it shrinking has become quite obvious. So knowing that made the hike that much more amazing.

On our walk to the face
Tight squeeze
Up through tunnels



And more tunnels
Unnerving crevasses
At the top (or as far as we could go)
A short break at the top
Behind these smiles is complete exhaustion
The full-day hike means an eight hour day with six hours being on the ice. It was actually quite challenging coming down the glacier, doing a number on your knees and exhaustion settling in pretty fast. I would absolutely recommend the hike, just make sure you're feeling energetic!

As you can imagine, the evening was a pretty quiet one with a bit of a celebration soak in the hot pools and a group meal of sausages and mash. Not only were we all exhausted but we would be on the road again the next morning by 7am so it was a very early night to bed.

Tuesday, 8 May 2012

Gizzy, Taupo(2), Whakahoro, Tongariro National Park, Welly


Gisborne (March 27-31)
During the five days we were in Gisborne we had ~three days of nice weather and we were able to do most of what we wanted to.  We ended up staying at Rayvon’s for the whole time instead of moving to stay in town.  We had the beach nice and close to tan and relax and go for walks/runs along in the late afternoon. Unfortunately there weren’t any good swells during the time we were here so the planned surfing didn’t end up happening.  After the group we were traveling with left, the place only had about five other people, two being the owners and three being wwoofers working for accommodation so it was pretty quiet; a nice change from the busy and noisy hostels.  The last two days were rain-filled so we spent that getting caught up on e-mails, the blog, etc. 

The last morning we were there we decided to wake up in time to see the “first sunrise in the world”. Pretty cool to take it all in at the beach but it was a disappointing view with so much cloud cover. Definitely should have done it the first morning as we heard it was perfectly clear. Oh well, live and learn. And there would be many more to see, just not at the “first place in the world to see [it]”. Later in the morning we were driven into town and had a few hours to explore Gizzy before we started our trip back to Rotorua. We ended up running more errands than spending time looking around but it was needed. Just before we started the “Go East” part of our trip my second pair of jandals (what the Kiwis call flip-flops; Japanese sandals) broke so I was in search for a new pair. We also had a few things we needed to send out. During that time though we got a decent sense of the city. Gizzy is another surf town but is much bigger than Raglan ( ~33,000 compared to ~2,700) with a significant percentage of the population being Maori. There is a fun relaxed vibe to the town and it is covered with interesting artwork.

Lounging in the back with Rayvon's pet dog, Georgie (don't let Scarlet see this!)
About as good as the sunrise got (April 31, 2012)
Some funky bus stop artwork
The big clock tower on Gladstone Road
After our few hours were up we started our trip back via the Waioeka Gorge. This had been closed for the past week or so due to a slide but had thankfully opened up the day before. Although there was still a lot of clean-up from what we saw, it seemed safe enough to travel through and still had beautiful views. We were able to enjoy these views a bit more by going for a couple short walks. Thankfully too because driving through the Gorge was just as windy and sickening as the East Coast.

Clean-up of the slide from the vehicle
A view of the Waioeka Gorge
We arrived in Rotorua early evening and just took it easy as the next morning we were heading back to Taupo and continuing our travels further down throughout the North Island.

Thanks for a fun trip along the East Coast, Jason!
Stayed at the Funky Green Voyageur that night
Rotorua to Taupo (April 1)
It was the second time traveling from Rotorua to Taupo with Stray but it felt like a completely different trip with a new driver; and completely different in a good way.  Unlike last time, we were provided with a lot of interesting information and history during our drive and were well-informed of all the activities we could participate in while in Taupo. We also stopped at a look-out point for a good overall view of Lake Taupo (the same size as Singapore!) and the town and enjoyed a short stop to check out Huka Falls (the power and amount of water from these falls can fill an Olympic-sized swimming pool in three secs or three pools in five secs!). This driver, “Trouble”, turned out to be our favourite driver and we stayed with him until Queenstown. 
A view of the town and lake
Part of Huka Falls
Difficult to capture the power of the Falls
The weather was quite poor again in Taupo but we took it in a bit more this time by going for a run around a bit of the lake.  We also stopped at this one section called “The Great Lake Hole in One Challenge”. The hole is on a dock out on the lake and from the walkway outlining the lake you can try and hit your ball for a hole in one and win $10,000. We didn’t witness anyone who made it. 

A closer view of the lake
"The Great Lake Hole in One Challenge"
We just spent the afternoon and evening here then we were off to remote Whakahoro the next morning. 

Whakahoro (April 2-3)
It was a relatively short drive from Taupo to Whakahoro but wow, what a ride! Once again, there were a lot of twists and turns along the way but some major bumps to add to the “adventure”. It didn’t help that we were in the back of the bus where you feel the bumps the most! The beauty of the area was able to distract us a bit from the roughness. 

A view of the landscape in between bumps and twists
Our accommodation for the night was at Blue Duck Lodge which is an eco-lodge and conservation area. Along with our typical orientation of a new place we learned a bit about the area and the endangered Blue Duck. We also learned about the possum and that it is one of the major pests in New Zealand and that wild boars are one of the main reasons that the Blue Duck is endangered. 

The main house
Adrian with a wild boar statue made out of wood
Where we stayed the night
Free axe throwing!
 We only had an afternoon and evening at Blue Duck Lodge so we attempted to make the most of it by going for a longer walk to a waterfall. It was gorgeous weather which was great because the walk took about two hours, there and back. We made it back just as the sun was going down. After supper we all gathered around the fire pit and got to know everyone a bit better. (This new group we met up in Rotorua after the East Coast trip)

Landscape for our walk
Some box beehives along the way
At the waterfall
Tongariro National Park (April 3-4)
Tongariro National Park was our next stop and is home to one of the best day hikes in the world- the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Unfortunately, very unfortunately, we found out the night before that we wouldn’t be able to do it because the weather was so poor. Gale winds of over 100kmp and rain. We were really looking forward to it, thought it would be a good challenge as it takes at 6-8 hours to complete and the elevation makes for unpredictable weather. 

When we arrived in the Park, our driver took us to do a much shorter alternate walk to see Taranaki Falls. It was a loop trail that took about an hour but the winds slowed us down a bit. It was warm and sunny but the winds were pretty brutal without the protection of the trees every once in a while. Along the way, we took glances of the Crossing and we were glad they canceled the hike; it looked pretty rough up there.

Edge of the lava flow
Taranaki Falls, ~20m
Once you enter the National Park, you get views of Mount Ngauruhoe (aka Mount Doom from Lord of the Rings) and Mount Taranaki (featured in The Last Samurai with Tom Cruise). On the way back to our accommodation for the evening, our driver also took us to what is known as “Gollum’s Pool”, the area where the scene of Gollum hitting a fish over the head on a rock was filmed. I felt like such a nerd excited to see all this but at the same time it’s pretty cool to say you’ve seen it or been there.

"Mount Doom"
Tongariro Alpine Crossing
Gollum's Pool
Our accommodation for the night was a nice change from the hostels. It was more of lodge with a cafĂ©, restaurant and bar in it but there was still a communal kitchen and common room like we’re used to. The rooms were a neat set up- four beds in total but two were upstairs and two downstairs so you had a bit of privacy without paying for a double or twin room.


We considered sticking around a couple more days to try and do the Crossing but the forecast called for more strong winds and rain. We could have done alternate walks but not having a vehicle limited us quite a bit. So in the end we decided to move on to the next place with the bus.

Wellington (April 4-5)
The next place on the itinerary was Wellington, New Zealand’s capital. On the way there we passed Ohakune and stopped for a fuel-up in Bulls. Ohakune is traditionally the “carrot capital” of New Zealand and to really embrace this, the town has erected a giant carrot in the centre (a common thing for towns to do- have statues of fruit, vegetables or animals the town is known for) and has an annual carrot festival. More recently they have come to be known as the ski capital of the North with skiing/snowboarding at Mount Ruapehu close by. Bulls is a fun town where everything is “bulls-based”. For example, the police station is called “Const-a-bulls” with a mural nearby with bulls dressed up in cop uniforms. 

Signpost in Bulls
With the "Const-a-bulls"
We arrived in Wellington late afternoon and unfortunately came into some poor weather. But considering we were only going to spend this one afternoon here, we made the most of it. After checking into the hostel (which was once known as the Historic Hotel Waterloo hosting the Queen’s entourage on her 1953 Coronation Tour of New Zealand), we started on our walk. Thanks to the Lonely Planet guide, we followed the walking route they have mapped out and checked out the Beehive (in some people’s opinions, one of the ugliest pieces of architecture in the world) along with other parliament buildings, the popular roads of Lambton Quay and Cuba Street, and ended up at the national museum, Te Papa. We’ve heard it takes approximately two full days to see and read everything in the museum so with only an hour and a half we were pushing it. It was a pretty impressive museum. We learned about the history of the nation, the Treaty of Waitangi and the controversy with it, the history of the land and how it has developed into what it is and provides now, and a lot about the Maori lifestyle and culture. 

The Beehive
Lambton Quay
Cuba Street
Te Papa
The setting of the city is really nice with the harbour on one side and the rest of the city surrounded by bushy hillside. The arts scene is great here with galleries, museums and such. And the number of cafes is insane. It reminded me quite a bit of San Francisco but nowhere near as overwhelming even considering it was one of the largest cities/towns we had been to in a while (pop. ~165,000). One of the downfalls of the city is that it sits on a major fault line and many people expected it would be hit by a devastating earthquake at some point instead of Christchurch. Also, because it lies at the bottom on the North Island with the Cook Strait at its doorstep, very strong winds come through on a regular basis. So strong, buildings have ropes attached to them for people to hold onto during their walking commute. Thankfully we didn’t experience those kinds of winds!

Surrounded by bush
The next morning was an early start with having to be at the ferry terminal for 7:15am. Conveniently though, our hostel was directly across the street from it!

Having made the ferry trip before to work in Blenheim, there wasn’t too much to get excited about. True, the weather was better than last time so we took some more pictures. And this time we had more people to share the trip with, sticking with the group we met in Rotorua. I think this is probably where we all started getting to know each other a bit better actually. There was:

·         Holly – an English girl who had been working in Thailand the past little while as a scuba diver
·         Stacey – also from England and had recently traveled through Africa and Australia
·         Kyla – another Canadian living and working near Camrose, originally from Ontario
·         Jochen – a German dairy farmer traveling New Zealand for four months before he returned back to work
·         Glyn & Sam – an English couple traveling New Zealand and Australia for 3 months


The three hours actually passed quite quickly and before we knew it we had arrived in Picton. There we picked up some more people and almost doubled the number of people on our bus! Next stop, Marahau, on the outskirts of Abel Tasman National Park!