Wednesday, 13 June 2012

Life in Shaky Christchurch


CHRISTCHURCH (April 16 – June 8, 2012)

Christchurch, the Garden City. But more recently known as the city that has been devastated by several earthquakes and is currently in the process of rebuilding. 

So much has happened in the almost eight weeks we have spent there...it will be challenging to include everything but we’ll try our best to fill you in and give you a good idea of what we lived and experienced.

Our intentions for our stay in Christchurch were really to base ourselves there to find work and replenish our travel funds. It seemed to be the most likely place where both of us could find work that paid reasonably well. So during our first week there we applied for as many jobs as we could and got set up with a few temp agencies to help us find work. Thanks to my past professor, Dr. David Legg, I got a couple contacts for networking and met with one of them who works for one of the city council fitness centres.

Apart from networking and looking for work, we were able to explore the city a bit more, compared to when we were here for a couple of days a couple months ago. To be honest there wasn’t too much to explore though especially after hearing what the city used to be and look like. The city now consists of pile after pile of rubble and demolition aftermath. After over a year since the most devastating earthquake, Feb. 22, 2011, they are just beginning work of rebuilding and they have a long way to go. An interesting fact to know is that Christchurch was safe from earthquakes until recent years when the fault line moved to right underneath the city. It didn’t help that much of the city was built on marshland and the foundation is grey sand. One of our first days in Christchurch we experienced our first tremor of 3.9. During our time here, we would feel ones ranging from 3.2 to 5.2. 

A shot of the CBD, red-zoned
An example of what some residents` houses look like now
High Street, what used to be one of the main streets in the CBD
A shot of the iconic Christchurch Cathedral just before demolition
A "Gap Filler" initiative - community book exchange in an old refrigerator
Re:Start Mall; a mall that consists of loading container shops just outside the red-zoned CBD
We also spent a few days with Maria, whom we met up with again before she continued her travels to
Melbourne and Sydney. We also celebrated Adrian’s 26th birthday by going to a container bar and another evening having some cake at the hostel. 

At Revival Bar for Adrian's 26th Birthday, a loading container that has been transformed into a bar
Birthday cake at the hostel
Being pretty confident that we would find work here, we decided to look for a flat to live in for the next few months instead of living out of hostels. After looking at a few places over a weekend, we signed for a flat just outside of the city centre. 5 Gilby Street. Once we moved in the flat consisted of 9 rooms and 12 people, which sounds like a lot but it was so great! Most rooms had their own ensuites, the kitchen was never too busy and it was fun to come home and hang out with a few people.  There was:
  • Thomas – a Kiwi studying something with computers
  • Simon – a Kiwi from Tauranga, a designer who recently went self-employed
  • Daniel (aka Carlos) – a half Kiwi half Spanish, works in international sales
  • Sam & Claire – a Kiwi couple from Christchurch; Sam works in a warehouse that supplies local supermarkets, Claire is a store manager for Rebel Sports (similar to Sport Chek)
  • Gen & Hannah – a Japanese couple that work as chefs
  • Alasdair – a Scotsman who has been working in New Zealand the past year or so as a quantity surveyor
  • Merlin – a German who moved to Christchurch to complete an internship for his education on infomatics
  • Jeremy – a Kiwi from Hawke’s Bay who has been in Christchurch for a number of years, working as a civil engineer
Our bedroom at 5 Gilby St

The common area where we have a lot of good memories with our flatmates!
After a couple weeks here, Adrian got a drainlaying job that would last for two weeks. Unfortunately it turned out to be more of a labour job rather than using his plumbing/gas fitting skills so he stuck with it but was extremely bored. On top of that, the pay wasn’t very good.

A week after Adrian started work I got a job with Antarctica New Zealand as an administrator for two weeks. Everyone was so friendly and welcoming there and it was a very enjoyable environment to work in. Not to mention pretty interesting work as the institution was responsible for all the research, logistics, etc. that takes place in Antarctica.

After I was finished with them, I moved onto a company called Downer and worked as a receptionist. Downer is an engineering/construction company that is part of the alliance which contributes to SCIRT (Stronger Christchurch Infrastructure Rebuild Team) initiatives. It was a neat experience learning about the rebuild of Christchurch and contributing to it, even if it was in a very small capacity. Once again everyone was very friendly and welcoming and a fun social environment to work in. 

We tried to make the most of our weekends there. 1. Because at least one of us was working during the week and 2. Because we needed a change of scenery from the rubble this is Christchurch. One of the weekends we caught a rugby game (Canterbury Crusaders v Auckland Blues) with some of the flatmates. Another weekend we went out to Sumner, a seaside suburb. Sumner was an area that was hit pretty badly and there are containers holding up the hills (similar to in the city, containers holding up buildings). But if you can see past, it’s a pretty cute suburb that holds the beauty of the beach and ocean and also some fun shops and cafes to experience. On a random Wednesday, a few of us went out to Lyttleton, the port of Christchurch. We went to a funky bar called Wunderbar for a drink and later took Dyers Pass Road(?) to the top of Port Hills(?) and got an amazing evening view of the city!

The Crusader, part of pre-game pump up
A try! One of many that night with a final score of 56-10
Jeremy, Daniel/Carlos, Merlin, Alasdair. not the best pic but at least you can put faces to names
Sumner
Throwing the football around at Taylor's Mistake, Sumner - a popular spot for surfing
Night view of the city
The work situation didn’t go as well as we had hoped. Adrian ran into a few problems/frustrations – the majority of companies wanted him to be NZ certified, some companies wanted him to have his own transport and/or tools, and the rebuild from the earthquakes just wasn’t at the stage yet where they needed plumbers and gas fitters. We eventually came to the realization that the only jobs he could get were mind-numbing labour jobs that paid just above minimum wage – barely enough to live let alone save for traveling and send money home for his house payments.  So after accepting defeat, we decided it would be best to head over to Australia (Melbourne) for more and better opportunities. The increased frequency of tremors/earthquakes also helped with this decision.

Our last weekend in Christchurch, also the long weekend for the Queen’s Birthday, will probably be the most memorable weekend of our time there. Friday evening we caught another Super Rugby 15 game, Crusaders v Highlanders. There is a big rivalry between the two teams similar to that of Calgary and Edmonton. So the day of the game, our one flatmate Claire waited in line to get tickets for us. Crusaders smashed the Highlanders but it was a fun atmosphere with friendly trash talking and the like. Saturday we went out to Akaroa, a French themed township out on the Banks Peninsula. Claire and I wandered around looking in shops while the guys went walking on the pier and grabbed a pint. Sunday was just a lazy day. We picked up Jeremy from the airport, met Claire for lunch in the mall where she works and got a bit of a tour of the city from Sam. Monday Sam took us out to Hanmer Springs which I would compare to Radium because of the hot pools/springs and landscape. We actually didn’t go in the springs but instead wandered around, went for lunch and played a game of mini golf. In the evening a bunch of us went out to Winnebago’s, a gourmet pizza joint, for our “last supper” together as a household.

Akaroa
Akaroa with Claire, Nick (Sam's friend), Sam and Adrian
A view of Hanmer Springs down below
Would have been a good shot if the sun wasn't so bright or if I had brought my sunnies
"Tea" at Winnebago's
Tuesday just consisted of packing for our flight the next morning (6:15am, *ugh*) and getting the chance to watch Claire play in her netball game – a new sport for us. According to Jeremy, it was a sport invented for women because they couldn’t handle the rough sport of basketball. *pff*, yeah right!

Wednesday morning we were up to 3am and out of the house by 3:30 to catch our flight. Sam was nice enough to drive us to the airport and hang out with us for a bit before heading to work. Apart from having to ditch our bag of flat necessities and such because it was going to cost us $400 ($25/kilo), checking in and everything went nice and smooth. It wasn’t until just before our boarding that things started to take a turn. As we were warned by the weather websites, it started to snow. Just light as first but enough to delay the flight a bit. After half an hour or so, it became worse with massive flakes coming down. Our flight was delayed for a number of hours until it was finally canceled around noon. Apparently it only snows once or twice a year in Christchurch so lucky us, we got to experience that! So much for not seeing snow for the year and a half we are planning to be gone for! Luckily we were able to rebook our flight for Friday evening with no cost difference.

It starts...
Waiting for the bus after rebooking our flight. The bus driver was nice enough to take us back into the city even though he was advised to stop driving and bring the bus back to the depot. Apparently the whole city shuts down when it snows here.
On the bus ride back to the city
The two days passed quickly and before we knew it, we were saying goodbye to our flatmates for the second time, had our third bag checked in for $42 instead of $400, and were boarding the plane.
Second time is a charm in this case and we arrived safe and sound in Melbourne on Friday, June 8. Since Friday we have been busy applying for jobs, getting set up with temp agencies and spending a bit of time getting to know the city. It’s taken us a bit to go from Kiwi time to the Aussie lifestyle but we’re getting there! We plan to work and live here for 6 months or so before we continue our traveling and hope to update the blog on a monthly basis so stay tuned for more of our adventures!

Sunday, 10 June 2012

AORAKI / MOUNT COOK

AORAKI/MOUNT COOK (April 15-16, 2012)

Leaving Queenstown the following morning, this time we traveled N.E. across the Canterbury Plains with our destination for the day Aoraki/Mount Cook. 

We stopped in several towns along the way including Cromwell (farms and orchards), Omarama (merino sheep), and Twizel (hydroelectric power station). Sights included Lindis Pass and Lake Pukaki, (part of the Waitaki hydroelectric scheme; largest of the three alpine lake in the area). It was such a beautiful drive with rolling hills, leaves on trees changing colours and bright blue lakes.

Nothing says "Welcome to Cromwell" like huge pieces of fruit & veg!
Kiwi traffic jam
Mount Cook in the distance from Peter's Lookout
Lake Pukaki - a bit blurry but I love the colours in this photo
We were pleasantly surprised to find our accommodation for the evening so close to so many walks around Mount Cook. Next door to the lodge where we were staying at was the Edmund Hillary Heritage Centre where you can learn more about Mount Cook and watch some neat movies. Some people bought tickets to go in and check it all out but we decided to keep it cheap and just do the free walks.

Once we got set-up in our room, a bunch of us did a short walk out to Kea Point. It was only about an hour and a half walk there and back and pretty easy. We spent some time at the Point to take in the views of Mount Cook (the tallest mountain in New Zealand measuring at just over 3,570m) and of course photos.
View from Kea Point
A photo with Mount Cook in the background
The following morning we did another short walk past the Blue Lakes and out to the base of the Tasman Glacier. Reading a bit about it, we were looking forward to the walk. But once we got out there we weren’t too wow-ed. The colours weren’t anything compared to what we saw along the West Coast or on the way here and the icebergs only looked like small pieces of ice floating in the lake below. We were still thankful to be able to do the walk though.
Blue Lakes, which actually look more green these days
Base of Tasman Glacier
Little icebergs in behind us
 Shortly after everyone got back from the walk, we continued our travels across the Canterbury Plains. We made a short stop at the infamous Church of the Good Shepherd for a photo op. This church is quite well-known and used for countless weddings throughout the year because of the stunning surroundings.

Church of the Good Shepherd
We made another stop in Geraldine for a fuel-up and food recharge. Then just another hour or so down the road was the destination for the evening, Rangitata. Christchurch used to be the next stop in the Stray itinerary but because of the earthquakes, they have since changed it to Rangitata. It was another pretty remote place with only rafting to offer for activities. Because we already did some rafting in Rotorua we decided to pass.

And actually later on the in the day we found out that the rafting company/accommodation providers in Rangitata was offering to take some people into Christchurch if they didn’t want to stay there for the evening. Because we already made plans to base ourselves in Christchurch for a while and find work, we took them up on the offer, along with eight other people.

Sadly our main traveling throughout New Zealand was coming to an end but we were also looking forward to diving into the Kiwi culture and lifestyle a bit more and very importantly, replenishing the travel funds!

THE SOUTH - Invercargill, Fiordland, Milford Sound

INVERCARGILL (April 12-13)

The next morning we headed further south to Invercargill/Bluff and it came quite early as we weren’t completely recovered from the big adrenaline day the day before. It was a beautiful morning though with a colourful sunrise to greet us.

Sunrise in Queenstown
We passed through Invercargill and stopped in Bluff to drop some of the group off that were ferrying to Stewart Island for the day. Stewart Island is the third major island of New Zealand and is the most southern one. I believe the ferry ride is about 2.5 hours and can be pretty rough. The island is known for its walks and abundant bird life. We decided to pass on this adventure because it was a bit out of our price range and we’re not necessarily “bird people”. 

After they were dropped off we spent some time in Bluff. Bluff is the most southern town in New Zealand. It has a population of ~2,100 and acts as the port for Invercargill. As the most southern town it has some touristy things to see- the Stirling Point signpost (similar to that in Cape Reinga) and the huge chain link sculpture. This sculpture symbolizes the Maori legend where the South Island is the canoe of Maui and Stewart Island is the boat’s anchor. There is a chain link on both islands “connecting” the two. We of course went for some photos with these. Bluff is also known for its oysters but we never tried any.

Stirling Point signpost
Chain link from Bluff to Stewart Island
On our way back up to Invercargill we made a stop at Oreti Beach. This beach is known for the racing of the “World’s Fastest Indian”, a supped up Indian motorcycle worked on and raced by the infamous Burt Munro. There was actually a film produced based on his life and career in 2005 but we have yet to see it. 

Oreti Beach
After getting set up at the hostel, we ventured to the Southland Museum and Art Gallery, one of the only things to do in Invercargill. Here we saw New Zealand’s living dinosaurs- tuataras. Henry is the main tuatara, over 100 years old and bred for the first time when he was 80! We saw some of his babies there that were just about to celebrate their first month birthday. The museum also had an exhibit of the World’s Fastest Indian which was cool to see. There was another “exhibit” with the bikes in a local hardware store, E Hayes & Sons.

Me with Henry, the tuatara
Adrian with the "World's Fastest Indian"
That evening we joined our group for some eats and pints at the local Speight’s Ale House. Speight’s is one of the main breweries in New Zealand first brewed in Dunedin and now there are ale houses all over the country.


GUNN’S CAMP / MILFORD SOUND (April 13-14)

The next morning we caught up with Maria, a girl from Holland that we became pretty good friends with but we had gone our separate ways from Taupo. She had spent some extra days in a few places when we did the East Coast so we were able to travel a bit more together leaving Invercargill.

Our destination for the evening was Gunn’s Camp in Fiordland. Along the way we checked out Monkey Island, bbqed infamous Tuatapere sausages on Fraser’s Island beach, took a walk along Mirror Lakes boardwalk and visited Lake Gunn. Just down the road was Gunn’s Camp and it was like going back in time. We slept in cabins that were heated by fireplaces. Electricity was run off a generator which was shut off at 10pm. There were no fridges to keep food in. No internet or cell phone reception. It was quite a secluded place. Nice to stay at for a day or two to just get away from everything for a bit. 

Our driver/guide, "Chooks", cooking sausages
Mirror Lakes
The only thing we really disliked about the place was the sandflies. Sandflies are similar to mosquitos but smaller in size and MUCH itchier bites! We had experienced them a bit while on the South Island and seen how bad they could get from other people showing us but Gunn’s Camp definitely took the cake for the amount we would see. There were literally swarms of them that would follow you and you had to wear spray at all times. Somehow we made it out fairly clear of any bites.

Overview of Gunn's Camp
Adrian in a massive hollow tree near Gunn's Camp
Only there for the evening really we had a group meal of nachos (which was more like corn chips and bean dip but still really good) and spent our time hanging out with our new “South trip” group, as we left a lot of our other group behind in Queenstown. We started the fire earlier in the evening so by the time we went to bed, the cabin was toasty warm.

The next morning we were off to Milford Sound where we would be taking a cruise trip throughout the Sound. Considered a must-do and one of the only ways to really see the Sound, we were quite looking forward to it. It was a great morning for it. The fog had cleared, there were no real clouds, and it was quite calm. The whole cruise was about two hours, going almost out to open water and back. Along the way we saw massive sheer rock faces, flowing waterfalls, Mitre Peak (1,692m), dolphins and a seal. Overall a very enjoyable and memorable trip.
Waterfalls
Mitre Peak


After the cruise we started our way back to Queenstown for the evening. On the way back we did the short Chasm Walk, drove through Homer Tunnel, took a short break in Te Anau. Because we only had the evening in Queenstown we just walked around the town and took it all in a bit more compared to our last visit which was completely adrenaline-fueled.  Queenstown just has so much to offer and you really don’t have to spend a lot to have a great time. There are plenty of walks to do and free activities like Frolf (Frisbee golf). If we had the chance to come back we agreed we would and do all these activities, plus visit the areas around Queenstown like Arrowtown and Wanaka.
Te Anau with a pukeko and the lake in the background
Another shot of Queenstown