Friday, 31 May 2013

MAINLAND / NORTHERN THAILAND - Bangkok, Sukhothai, Chiang Mai


BANGKOK (May 9-14, 2013)

We continued our Thailand adventures on the mainland after flying from Phuket to Bangkok. After hearing how crazy Bangkok is from other travellers and reading about all the scams to watch out for I was a bit anxious to fly in. We booked five nights stay in order to ensure enough time to sort out our visa for Vietnam and get some sightseeing in. I’m not sure if it was the area we stayed in (near Siam Square as opposed to the backpacker ghetto of Khao San Road) but we never really felt overwhelmed and actually enjoyed our time in Bangkok, scam-free! We did pay a bit more for staying in this area but we saved on transportation costs by being close to the BTS instead of taking taxis so it worked out well. Not to mention the staff at the hotel we stayed at were so friendly and full of information!

Our first full day in Bangkok was devoted to getting our Vietnam visa and we managed to apply and receive the visa on the same day. We did pay a bit more for “express” service but it was nice to have it taken care of and then have the rest of our time in Bangkok to spend on sightseeing.

The major sightseeing day was spent at the Grand Palace/Wat Phra Kaew and Wat Pho. To get to the area we took the BTS and then a river ferry. Cheap transport and nice viewing along the way. The Grand Palace is the old royal residence and encompasses many temples including Wat Phra Kaew where the Emerald (actually made out of jade but originally thought to be emerald) Buddha is kept. As you can imagine there were millions of tourists here, an absolutely packed place and another scorcher of a day. But we were still able to enjoy our time taking in the beautiful bright colours of the temples and the intricacies of the exteriors and the murals on the interiors. 

The Emerald Buddha in his "summer" costume
The other wat within walking distance we ventured into was Wat Pho. This wat is known for its Reclining Buddha, the largest in the country measuring in at 46m in length and 15m in height. With the heat continuing to rise and the wat being much smaller than the last, we spent only about an hour wandering around and hiding in the shade before returning to our hotel.

One end of the Reclining Buddha
And near the other end
In addition to this sightseeing we spent some time at the MBK, a popular and busy mall, to check out some prices on electronics and eat at the food court which had cheap but yummy Thai dishes. After doing some research on the internet we found the electronics prices in Thailand aren’t actually cheaper than Canada or only about $20-50 so we didn’t see it worthwhile getting anything.

Our last evening in Bangkok we took a trip out of town to the Amphawa Floating Markets. These markets are known for good food and nice handicrafts and souvenirs. These were refreshing to visit because 1. It was out in the countryside and 2. It wasn’t nearly as touristy as a neighbouring floating market. I think we only saw about seven other Westerners. The area is also known to have fireflies but unfortunately we didn’t see any.

Sunset over Amphawa Floating Markets/Walking Street
Shot from a bridge overlooking some of the food boats

 After our five nights in Bangkok we caught a bus to Sukhothai which took six hours. The roads were smooth and the bus had air conditioning so no complaints from us!

SUKHOTHAI (May 14-16, 2013)

The draw to Sukhothai for both us and other travelers is the historical park, a World Heritage Site. The Park is the remains of the ancient city, the first independent Thai kingdom, with ruins dating back to the 12th Century. The other draw for us was that it was a mid-way travel point between Bangkok and Chiang Mai.

The area of Sukhothai is split into New and Old with the Old housing the Sukhothai Historical Park. So we spent two nights in New Sukhothai and the one full day exploring the Park.  It’s a short 12km trip between New and Old. 

Once we arrived at the Park, we rented bicycles to get around and an audio tour unit to share and then we were set to explore! We stuck to the Central Zone but even staying in that area we managed to spend three hours there. We learned a lot about the specific architectural style of the temples and gained a better understanding of the Buddhism religion. We loved seeing something so different architecturally compared to Canada and learning the extensive history of the area, another aspect our country cannot provide being so young. It was also a refreshing change of environment having previously been in Bangkok, a big city, for five days.

One of the Buddhas in Wat Mahathat
A large bodhi tree like the one Buddha laid under and eventually achieved Enlightenment
Standing Buddha in Wat Mahathat
Wat Si Sawai, originally Hindu temples
Adrian with some elephants at Wat Sorasak
 Ta Pha Daeng Shrine, the oldest structure in the Park
We returned to the hostel by 3pm and spent the rest of the day and night trying to cool off from the 38 degree weather.  Unfortunately not so successful staying in a fan room and the temperature not going below 26 degrees. So our sleep wasn’t the best but regardless we left the next day and took another six hour bus ride to Chiang Mai.

CHIANG MAI (May 16-21, 2013)

We were excited to arrive in Chiang Mai because not only was it our last destination in Thailand but we planned to do a number activities here. This city has so much to offer – adventure tours, numerous wats, abundant Thai culture with muay thai matches and cooking classes and a chilled out vibe. This was possibly my favourite place in Thailand because of the activities we did but the locals were much more friendly and welcoming while still holding onto their customs and traditions as opposed to catering to the Westerners like on the islands. 

Our first activity was a half day of spending time with Asian elephants at a camp. We learned about them and got to know them by feeding them bananas and getting slobbery suction kisses from them. We then got into Mahout training and got taught phrases to direct the elephants and how to get on and off the elephant safely.  Soon we were all trained up and Adrian and I shared an elephant ride around the camp then to a watering hole. Here we bathed the elephant with some wood that produces a natural soap/shampoo when scrubbed. After that we took a short ride back to the base and had some lunch. Our half day was summed up when we all received Mahout training certificates. A bit cheesy but pretty standard for activities such as this. 

Kisses!
Up on top and feeding her bananas or "boon" for food
Cooling down and bathing our elephant
Ride back to camp
Our second activity was the next day – a full day Thai cooking class out on a farm! We all got picked up by a minibus and started the day out at the company’s in-town location for an orientation and to decide which dishes we would like to cook. There were six categories and we were to choose one from each – stir fries, appetizers, soups, curry paste, curry and dessert. Adrian picked a hot basil chicken stir fry, spring rolls, coconut milk soup, green curry (paste) and bananas in coconut milk. I chose chicken with cashew nuts stir fry, glassnoodle salad, tom yum soup, massaman curry (paste) and mango with sticky rice for dessert. 

Once we got out to the farm we learned about their sustainable living practises and took a tour through the farm to see all the rice, herbs and vegetables they grow there. 

At the farm
Back in the kitchen we were shown how to make sticky rice and then learned how to make pad thai. From there it was “non-stop cooking” like our instructor, Indy, liked to say cooking up our first two dishes, stir fries and appetizers. Adrian’s and my dishes didn’t turn out too bad! Then we were given a 20 minute chill out break. After it was more non-stop cooking, grinding up our curry pastes, cooking the curries, making soup and putting our desserts together. 

Non-stop cooking!
Our curry pastes - red, massaman, panang and green
By the end of the day we were absolutely stuffed with our own dishes and from sampling others! We had a great group for the day and so not only did we learn a lot about Thai cooking but we were also in good company doing it. We had two Canadian girls now working in Hong Kong, a Dutch couple and a girl from China. As a parting gift we all received a cookbook with all the meals we cooked that day plus some others. Can’t wait to cook some of these dishes at home!

Enjoying our dishes
That evening we decided to check out the national sport of Thailand, muay thai. We must have gone to a more touristy stadium but we had a great time nonetheless. The sport, or martial arts, has a deep history and as annoying as the recorder type instrument that was played before and during the fights was it was nice to know some of the traditions are still practised in modern fights. With our tickets we got to see six fights starting with what looked like ten year olds and ending with heavier and more experienced fighters. We were both so impressed with their agility and strength in both the punches and kicks. Great night out!

Opening musical performance
The ~10 year olds
By the ring after the fights
The next two days Adrian went away on a hill tribe trek. This entailed two days of trekking steep hillsides and spending the one night with the tribespeople of the area. Adrian was challenged with the steepness and heat and then rain and wetness. Part of the first day was broken up with an elephant ride and on the second day he got to do some white water and bamboo rafting. The homestay for the evening was a cool experience even if he wasn’t able to communicate with the family except for the woman cook who knew some English. He definitely came back tired and sore but in a good way!

A scenic shot of the jungle at the elephant camp
Another scenic photo to show the steepness of the hills
Village family homestay
Adrian on the balcony of the homestay
While I wanted the experience I decided to stay behind knowing the heat and exertion climbing the hills would be too much for me. So instead I just relaxed, caught up on e-mails, wandered around the city and Sunday night went to the Night Market. On Monday I took a 40 minute ride up a hill to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep. This wat has various Buddha images throughout it and is considered a very sacred temple in the North. As a bonus it has a beautiful setting in the forest and a great view of the city below.

306 steps to the wat
Buddha, Buddha, Buddha
View of the city below
We spent our last night checking out the Night Bazaar and then organised our bags for our flight the next day – Chiang Mai to Bangkok, Bangkok to HANOI, VIETNAM!

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